Appliance Repair Austin

Hi.. today we will learn how to repair this washing machine what we have here is a washing machine brand Samsung with capacity of 7 kg Automatic which is problem are Control Panel not functioning we will check for the first step at our project we need tools like a Multimeter test pen wire tape cigarettes if we can repair this, than we smoke this cigarettes until it done ok.. lets we start when you are find out your Washing Machine not functioning for the first step is we need to check fuse at plug socket as you can see, there is fuse located at the plug you can take the cover using test pen and then you will see fuse inside then we use Multi meter and test it ok..if you see Multi meter are running Its mean that fuse are in good condition then closed it back Make sure of your safety Please make sure you are not connected with electricity and then then we check other component what we need to do next we open all panels.. one by one keep unnecessary tools test pen put a side then looks like technician then we open all the panels as you can see there is 2 screw located i already open it to save time and as you can see there is a Panel Board and what i found out my panel board already burn and this is why its not functioning then next step i already when to spare part shop and buy a new Panel Board i buy it at Jalan Pasar ok.. this is brand new Panel Board but this is a China made and not a original parts as you can see the different the price also cheaper than the original but because of this a trial project i decided to buy a cheaper one and then next step we need install this parts i will loosed screw and install using drill machine next step, unloosed all screw located and install with a new one opps…we have a advertisement for a minute… now..we already loosed up all screw there is 4 screw located now we can dismantle and install with new one this is the old one we replaced it with a new one this is a brand new Panel board similar with the old one next step is install there is a slot inside after we put in the slot the check everything are in order next step is screw all in back better used driller for quick installation alright… we are ready now the old one.. we can keep aside now.. the story is simple.. we just connect back as usual turn like this… take the wire and slot to previous wiring connection we have to check properly need to connect as before if wrong connection, we will get trouble ok… ready we clean up little bit then put back in place put aside unused tools slot in..and double check all connection.. then slot in as before… next step.. what we need to do we need to check others component which is cause of damaging Panel Board now… rotate this washing machine now..at the back side panel can be opened there will be 2 screw i ready opening it before to save time now.. what we can see here if you can see clearly this component… we call it (missing spare part) wait a minute, looking for the spare parts ok..already found missing spare parts this is it.. next step.. what we need to change are parts that cause of damaging Panel board it was because of Water Inlet Valve it is located at here his function are controlling water inlet the other component Water Control Valve and his function is controlling water level in the washing machine normally its hard to damage usually Water Inlet Valve need to change so..what we need to do.. we need to take out the pipe inlet then take out Water Inlet Valve this is part that we need to change there is filter inside and need to clean wait a minute…i need to clean this ok.. i just found out the brand new parts already include filter inside don’t need to worry already what we need to do now is just to install a new part this is Samsung Water Inlet Valve as per saller recommendation this is one of the part can make our Control Board damage as usual install back at the same place and make wiring connection back we need to be carefully cause this thing can easily broken looks like… we need to push harder wait a minute ok..finally install it!!! push harder on it!! next step is connect back all wiring done!!…and put aside old part now we check all wiring connection make sure everything in good condition before i forget.. there is one fuse need to check using Multimeter make sure everything are good condition clean up dirty part… then put back pipe inlet done… closed back panel.. now… it’s time for before screw all in… we test first… it’s time to test the washing machine.. push on… now remove dirty part inside push Start insert water check if there is licking at the back while we wait.. it time for smoking.. ok…we wait a while… at the moment…everything’s are working maybe we need to put some clothes ok.. it’s now running washing full with water inside put some detergent first part already tested.. now we wait for drying part.. we can also check mechanical parts.. if something wrong.. then we need to change ok.. now looks like our project are succesfull this machine are doing drying part process and everything working as usual tq.. for watching

hi welcome to how to repair In this article I’ll be showing you how to change a door lock on a Hotpoint Aqualtis this can also be used for the ariston Aqualtis model as well your model number can normally be found inside the door on the framework when you’re neading a apart but on this machine we have flashing lights coming up the machine will not start and I’m not able to open the door In this article I’ll show you how to actually open the door on the emergency unit and also how to change the door interlock there are many more videos at the website to help you with this type of machine so let’s get on with the repair first thing you really need to do is unplug the machine from the electrical supply now all these door locks you have an emergency system which basically will open the door okay now this emergency pull cord can be found below the plinth normally on the left hand side with a thin screwdriver you’ll be able to drop the plinth and take it away now if you look closely on the bottom left hand side you can see a yellow tab it may be slightly different in color on certain machines now if you pull this and open the door at the same time the door will open so pull on the tab and open the door now you can get your laundry out of the machine now by any chance that you haven’t got a tab or it’s missing off your machine you will need to take the lid off the Machine and press down on the locking mechanism at the top while pulling on the door and this will release the door for you you can see all about how interlocks work at the website on one of our other tutorials I’ve put the link in the tutorial and you’ll see the link popping up on the links above at the moment or in the description below but we do a whole video to show you how to do interlocks work and why they fail basically the electronics in the door lock is what’s causing the problem and sometimes you may have a fault with a printed circuit board but most occasions it is the door lock that goes faulty now to replace the door lock you will need firstly your model number now the model number will either be on the chassis of the machine or possibly on the door itself you can see the full model number here and also the serial number and on this machine it’s also on the frame as well do not take notice to what’s written on the front of the machine because that is not the full model number you do need the full model number right to change the door interlock you’re going to need a small phillips screwdriver and on this machine it’s a small star drive and this one’s a t10 okay so what you will need to do is insert the screwdriver underneath the seal bring back the spring and then slide this all the way around and remove the outer band next you need to peel the doll seal back this will give you access to the back of the door interlock with your torque undo the school door lock should drop down sometimes they are quite sticky to get out you may have to lift them and push them back the door lock will come out here is the emergency cord this will need to come off can be quite difficult just to get off so we’ll just tuck that there for a second then you have the electronic plug these plugs have got location tabs and they can only go in one way now we’ll replace it with the genuine door lock drop the plug in and now we’ll put our emergency cord back on slide the door lock back in make sure you don’t trap any wires replace the screw before going any further you’ll notice that the emergency tab has actually popped up inside the machine so we’ll have to go down here now and we locate the emergency tab that’s all in place just in case the machine ever goes long again it’s always worth making sure that the tab is properly located now to replace the door seal just carefully go around the machine putting the rubber back over the lip once the door seal is in place make sure you locate the spring in the same location where it came from what’s its honor over the top make sure the wire band fits in between the gap on the seal you may need to use the flat blade screwdriver just to hold it in place and make sure that’s all located perfectly reconnect the electricity supply and we’re ready to fly the machine out on this occasion you heard it only click on one time and the machine started straight away that’s all working perfectly now I hope you enjoyed this video please remember to shop with us we have all these toolbox available at the website for many mix of models and machine but do make sure you have your model number and serial number on some models of machine thank you very much indeed for watching this video please remember to support the website and if you did find this video helpful do remember you can always support the website by buying a severe thanks for watching

washer woes got you down, well I’m here hopefully to help you out of your dirty dilemma if your washer has a set of 6 lights somewhere on the console that are labeled something like this you my friend are likely the reluctant owner a splutch drive washing machine want to splutch you may ask well apparently there are not enough words in the English language so Whirlpool decided to smash two words together and invent a new one first spline which is kinda like a shaft with teeth in a clutch which is a device for engaging and disengaging two working parts of a mechanism but because it’s not actually word I’m gonna use it In this article however splutch it efficient it’s simple and it’s easy to work on now before you throw up on your computer because my public display of affection for Whirlpool let me just finish by saying that the its easy to work on one is particularly important because you will be working on or you’ll be tapping your celebratory beverage fund paying someone else to work on for you to be fair this design does have potential however because you’re watching this video I’m guessing some poor design features week materials and maybe even engineering flaws might have your panties in a splutch… well my friend just sit back and relax while I assist you in defining the cause if your washer woes This washer style has many disguises and price tags ranging from about four hundred to nine hundred dollars depending on well it is wearing its fancy face or not but the mechanics in diagnostic processes are basically the same here a small sample of models and brand names used as a nation In this article (WoW) Don’t worry there is a searchable list on my website applianceassistant.com The main definable feature is this bank of six status lights somewhere on the console let’s start with the very important process understanding the diagnostics mode so think this is a combination lock you clear to the left three to four rotations and then start the combination pretty quick right right right left right each click should be slightly faster than one second if you got it right all the lights on the Status bank should start flashing if not clearly left and try again. there are two diagnostic modes automatic and manual and there’s also a setting for retrieving stored error codes was from last few times you wash washer splotched. first we will retrieve the error codes because you may create more errors with your test cycles so we want to find out what’s recorded in clear them before we move on after successfully entering the diagnostics mode turn the dial one more click to the right so that the done light and press the start button the guilty party will then clear its conscience 1-click at a time when your washer is done confessing its last four mistakes all the status lights will flash remember right down the errors as you go because once you exit the diagnostics by pressing and holding the start button for three seconds you also a race any stored codes and now some translated sampling error codes And a puppy your viewing pleasure… the far left right light labeled fill or sensing is F or splotched up! whichever you prefer the Second light from the left usually labeled wash is 8 the third rinse is 4 the fourth spin is 2 and lastly the done light is one F 7 E 1 basket speed sensor fault F 7 E 6 motor fault F 5 E 1 lid lock fault and F 5 E 3 lid unlock fault if you don’t see any codes and only the first light labeled sensing or fill flashes it means that ether your washer is lying or it’s been behaving itself has nothing to report next let’s run an automatic diagnostic cycle to see if we can get a few more clues if you’re having a noise problem while the washer is either agitating or spinning you may want to check out the other video in the series before you put yourself through the misery up listening to that horrible noise one more time well just for the heck of it let’s hear it! Or this! Yea this is a very common problem and is definitely in the running for the most annoying noise ever the good news is it’s usually a very easy repair after all the lights are lit for the second time click your control to the right two clicks or until only the spin light is lit and press the start button the washer will now begin an automatic test sequence checking the lid lock, the cold water valve, the hot water valve, then the hot and cold valves together. next the shifter moves to disengage the tub and the motor drives wash plate for agitation then the drain pump and after that the shifter reengages the tub and the motor will attempt short spin after all that the washer will wait until the tub sensor detects that the tub his coasted to a full stop if all goes well the lid should unlock and you can check your washer for any new errors well hopefully your not completely consplutched and are one step closer to being the hero of your home. if this video was helpful give a thumbs up and subscribe for more appliance repair help visit ApplianceAssistant.com Thanks again for watching! way

Hello everybody it’s ‘Lurgs’ here welcome to my channel and today have you got an Error E18 on your Bosch washing machine? This basically means your filter is blocked you’ve probably got some coins in there or a hair clip or something. I’ll show you how to remove the filter give it a good clean and then put it back in again, right let’s get cracking. This is the E18 Error that I’ve got on the front panel display, so the first thing you need to do is take out your wet washing, normally if you get that Error E18 it will stop mid cycle, now the next thing to do is switch off the power at the plug and then you need to turn off the mains cold water feed because we’re going to be removing the drainage pump filter, now right down here on the right hand side at the front you’ve got this small plastic panel just push that clip down at the top and then remove, and the first thing to do is remove this hose here, now you’ll need a small tray to catch any water you can pull that hose out a little bit and it’s just got a small cap on the end, so just unclip that cap and this is just draining out any excess water inside the drainage pump filter, you will still get some water when you unscrew the filter but this is just to get rid of most of it, and there’s a link above now about how to install a brand new washing machine, ok once all that water has come out you can put that hose back, remember to put the cap back on nice and securely do not leave that off otherwise the next time you do a wash you will get water all over your floor, now just get a small tray because you will get some excess water out of here from the drainage filter, you just turn it anti-clockwise don’t unscrew it completely and just let the water start draining out, now if you get too much excess water you can always tighten it up quickly, empty that tray and then unscrew it again to get any excess water back out again, and there’s a link above now about how to put the childproof lock on your Bosch washing machine, so I’m just gonna empty this now, just put a small towel down on the floor so you’re just turning anti-clockwise again just nice and slow, I can already hear that there’s something in there and there is the culprit an old penny, unfortunately not a gold penny now the normal culprits are coins and hair clips so just have a look inside make sure there’s nothing else stuck inside there, and while you’ve got the filter out just make sure that propeller turns easily, I’ve just got a flat bladed screwdriver and this is moving freely so that’s good, now this filter is actually looking in excellent condition so there’s no need to clean that but if it was all gunky and dirty just give that a clean under normal hot water, now just put the filter back in you just turn it clockwise and just keep turning it until it locks in in the up right position, and there’s a link above now about how to remove the dispenser drawer on your Bosch washing machine if you need to give that a good clean, I’m purposely going to leave this front panel off just so that the first wash I can just check that there’s no leaks on the filter, next thing you need to do is turn the cold water feed back on just do this very slowly, once you’ve done that you then need to turn the power back on, make sure you haven’t got wet fingers, then put your next bit of washing in and there’s a link above now about how to open a jammed door on your Bosch washing machine. Close the door and then start a cycle I’m just going to put it on a super quick 30-minute wash, put one of these liquid gel balls in which we’ve been using lately ,close the door and then start the wash.

Once you’re happy that there’s no leaks out of the filter that you took out and put back in you can just put that front panel back on again, so let’s just put that back on definitely no leaks there, and there’s a link above now about how to clean your uPVC windows frames so they stay clean. I’ll tell you what that’s made me pretty thirsty it’s time for a lovely cup of tea, and also our Esther is very thirsty as well, not for tea just for some water. It’s hard work isn’t it making all these videos.

If you found that video useful please subscribe by pressing this button down here I really do appreciate you visiting my channel, and if you’d like to select any other videos around here that would be really cool and be sure to hit that Bell notification tab.

Hi, it’s Jack from AustinAppliancePros. So you’ve decided to replace the water pump on your washer. It’s not too hard of a job. You’ll need a few tools.

A good pair of slip joint pliers, a flat blade screwdriver and a putty knife. With a little bit of time I should be able to show you how easy this is to do. Before we get started changing the water pump we need to do a couple of things.

First of all, disconnect the appliance from the power supply. It’s also a good idea to disconnect the fill hoses and the drain hoses because the best way to do this job is with the appliance either tilted back or laying directly on its back on the floor. You’re going to want to have a container handy because you’re going to have some water left in that drain hose that you need to get rid of.

Now that we’ve prepared the appliance for servicing the first thing we need to do is tilt the console back so we can disconnect the cabinet support clips. On the outer edges of our console there are some spring clips at the front. Slide a putty knife in underneath the console and engage that spring and tilt the console up. Take caution on this side (gestures to left side) where you place your putty knife. You want to keep it right out at the edge because there is a lid switch there that you don’t want to damage.

The console will support itself. Now we can disconnect the lid switch. For the support clips that hold the cabinet to the back take a flat blade screwdriver slide it down into the channel of the clip, tilt back on the screwdriver and out and the clip will come out.

Now we’re ready to remove the cabinet from the machine and get on with our service. Open the lid and standing in front of the machine we’re going to lift up. Now we’ve go the washer where we need to have it to get access to our water pump. You should use two people for this job.

We’re going to want to lay the machine on its back so we can access the pump properly. Before we lay the washer on its back we will tilt the console back into position. Support the back panel and tilt the washer backwards. Gently lower it to the floor. Now we have access to our pump.

Before we begin this repair the splash plate above the pump does have a few sharp edges on it. You’re going to be working in this area so the best thing to do is to put a bit of duct tape across that just so we don’t cut ourselves while we’re working in this area. Now we’ll take our channel lock pliers and remove these hose clamps. It’s best to have a container handy at this point just in case there’s any water in these hoses.

There may or may not be. Better safe than sorry. The next step will be to remove the pump. You can either use a flat blade screwdriver under these clips, or your thumb. Just tilt them back, give them a quarter turn and they’ll pull right out of there.

Now our pump is ready to lift off of the motor shaft. Notice the D-shaped shaft on the motor that mates with the pump. Before we position the pump on to the motor make sure that the shaft is lined up and that the 4 legs of the pump set in to the little receptacles on the motor.

Take our clips, rotate them and just snap them into place. Reconnect our hoses making sure that they go fully on to the pump to the stop blocks. Take your channel lock pliers, replace the clamps. You can remove your protective tape at this point and the washer’s ready to stand back on its legs. When reinstalling the cabinet we need to make sure that we engage the two tabs on either side of the base frame with the elongated holes on the bottom of the cabinet located in the front and rear on both sides.

Here’s the location of the holes in the frame of the cabinet that line up with the tabs on the base frame. Ok, holding the lid in one hand with your other hand grab the inside of the cabinet and the tub opening, tilt it back toward you and line it up with the frame. Lower it back and line up the tabs on the frame.

Now we’re ready to secure the back to the cabinet with the retaining clips. Take the elongated portion, slide it into the opening on the back of the cabinet, pull it forward into the opening in the cabinet and press it down into place. Now that it’s firmly in place we can reconnect our lid switch harness. Make sure it locks in place. Now it’s a matter of reinstalling our console.

Locate the rear tabs in the cabinet, line up the springs and snap it into place. Good luck with your repair.

Hi I’m Jack from AustinAppliancePros In this article I’ll be showing you how to remove a bra wire or other foreign object from your washing machine. If during or after a wash cycle your machine starts to make a strange noise when the drum turns it may well mean that you have a foreign object trapped between the inner drum and the outer drum. Now it’s essential you remove this as soon as possible as it could perforate the drum causing flooding in your home and irreparable damage to your machine. Safety first: Always unplug an appliance before carrying out any work. Now as soon as you hear the noise coming from something catching use a torch and look carefully at the perforations in the inner drum.

Slowly turn the drum and try to identify where the noise is coming from. You may be lucky and spot the end of a bra wire and using your hands very carefully or a pair of pliers ease the bra wire out of the perforations. You might need to turn the drum a little to ease it out.

The next problem I’m going to look at is a small item of clothing trapped between the inner and outer drum. If you spin your drum and you can see and feel a lot of resistance in the drum it may mean that something is trapped between the inner drum and the outer drum. So what you can do is put a little gap in the seal in between the seal and the inner drum.

Turning the drum again you may be lucky enough to see the item that’s stopping it from turning. However if you can’t it’s a good idea to use a thin flexible probe such as a cable tie. And work that around the outside of the inner drum to see if you can feel where the object is Ah, I can actually see it and feel that we have a cloth trapped between the inner and outer drum. If you can pull that out with your fingers great but what may well happen in that case is the item will break in half if it’s a rag such as this and you don’t want the other half being trapped inside the machine. So to remove this i’m going to use a flathead screwdriver and wedge that between the inner drum and the door seal and then lever it back just to give me a bit more space to access the item inside.

There we go, managed to get it all out. After removing the object give your drum a spin to ensure that there isn’t too large of a gap between the drum and the seal. If there is you can easily knock the drum back into place using a wooden mallet as you don’t want a larger gap to appear making it even easier for clothes and objects to get trapped behind. If you’ve been unsuccessful in finding the object between the inner drum and the seal it may well be that it slipped underneath the drum. To access underneath the drum you’re going to have to remove either the heater or the sump hose to find the object.

I’ve just removed the back of the Machine and I’ll take the heater out to show you how an item could be trapped in the heater itself. And there we can see the item. If you haven’t been unlucky and find that the item isn’t on the heater. It’s worth taking a torch and having a good look inside the heater housing to see if anything’s inside there.

Failing that you want to gain access to the sump hose from the bottom of the machine. In that instance it’s better if you put the machine on to its side so you can access the sump hose safely. When putting the heater back in make sure that you push it in firmly and that it engages with the bracket. I have put the machine on to its side and remove the base plate here, and here we can see the sump hose.

I’ve also loosen the clip so we can ease the hose off and here we can see underneath the drum. So this is another way to access underneath the drum. You can also tilt the machine back upright and use a torch to shine through the perforations and then if you see an object you could push it through and access it via the sump opening here.

On some models of washing machine is possible to remove the drum paddle from inside the drum which is another way to access underneath the drum. However on this model that’s not possible. If you’ve looked at all the techniques In this article and you still can’t find the offending item it may well be they will have to dismantle the drum itself. To do that please see another eSpares video how to replace the drum bearings in your washing machine.

Remember spares and accessories for all the appliances around your home can be found on the eSpares website. Thanks for watching.

Hi it’s Jack from AustinAppliancePros. Today, we are going to show you how to change the suspension spring on your washer and it’s a really easy job, all you’ll need is a Phillips screwdriver and a pair of locking pliers, let me show you how we do it. Now before we begin this repair we will need to disconnect the power to the appliance, so simply pull the plug and we’ll also need to move the appliance out far enough that we can access the side of the cabinet, to lift on the tub. Now if it’s a stacking unit you’ll need to remove the dryer from the top of the washer, or if it’s a side by side unit, you will need to remove the top panel, it’s held in place with some Phillips screws across the back, and then it will slide forward, and then lift up and you can un-hinge it and remove it, to determine which of the springs is broken, and then you will need to have access to that side. Now next we are going to remove the lower front panel and again it’s held in place with a couple of Phillips screws so just remove the two bottom screws that hold that access panel in place, and now with the screws removed we’ll just tilt that it on the bottom of that panel and let it drop down, there’s a couple of locating pins that fit into these two holes, and then we can set that panel aside.

Now with the lower access panel removed we next should inspect the shocks to make sure that they are both in good condition, typically if the spring is broken, either one or both shocks will need to be replaced, so you should order those up at the same time and they do come as a pair. Now what we need to do next is to raise that tub up high enough, that we can disconnect the broken spring and install the new spring but we’ll need to support the weight of that tub, so you need an assistant to do this, and then just simply taking some wooden blocks we’ll set them in between the base frame and the bottom of the tub or in the motor area just enough to support that tub and we will take caution that we don’t damage the tub in doing that. Now the tub is heavy so make sure that you have enough strength and support to lift that tub up before we try to block in place. Now because those springs are under a fair bit of tension and we’re working around some rather sharp metal edges, we should put some protective gloves on and some protective eye wear as well. Next we’ll remove the retaining strap that fits over top of the top hook of the spring, it’s held in place with two Phillips screws, remove and set that aside and now if the old spring is still intact you will need a pair of locking pliers to remove that, simply grasp it from the top, get a good clamp on it and then while lifting up on the inside, pull it up enough lean it out of the hole and let it drop back down.

Remove the old spring and discard it, now when installing the new spring we’ll put the large hook on the bottom, and we’ll pull that through the loop on the tube first making sure that we have it lined up, so that the top hook faces towards the outside of the cabinet. Now you probably won’t be able to pull that spring up through that hole with just your hands, so take a piece of cord or heavy gauge wire and then we will just form a loop to hook the top of that spring, and we’ll pull it out through. So again engage the spring on the tub, slide your cord or your wire down through the slotted opening that the spring will come out through, hook it onto the top of the spring and then pull it straight up through and then bring it over and lay it in the hole, now you can talk a little bit of that tension off, pull the cord out, and now we’re ready to remove the support from the bottom of the tub and reinstall the top and the front panel.

Now with our blocking removed we’re ready to reinstall the lower access panel to line up those locator pins on the top, and start the two Phillips screws in at hand first, make sure we tighten these screws securely and hold the access panel in place while you are tightening them, make sure we have a nice clean fit, now we are ready to reconnect the power and our repair is complete. I told you it was an easy job, thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.

Hi, it’s Jack. Today we’re going to show you how to change the drain hose assembly on your washer. Now, it’s a really easy job. All we’re going to need is a large flat-blade screwdriver, a number two Phillips screwdriver and a pair of slip joint pliers.

Let me show you how we do it. Now to do this repair, we will need to pull the washer far enough forward that we can access the back of it. We’ll also need to disconnect the power, so remember to pull the plug.

Well next, we’re going to loosen two Phillips screws at the back corners of the console. We can remove them completely, or, if you choose, just leave them partially in, back them off enough that they will clear the main top. Then just give the console a little bump forward, on both sides and then roll that console completely over the back.

Now, our next step will be to disconnect the lid switch. Lift up on the locking tab on the harness and pull that away. Then with a large flat-blade screwdriver, we’re going to disengage these hooks that hold the back panel to the cabinet. With the flat-blade, we’ll go down into the hook on that bracket.

We’ll just put that into there and pop that loose. Do the same on the opposite side, unhook them from the back panel and set those aside. Now at this point, we can lift the whole cabinet away from the back.

We’ll just tilt it slightly forward, lifting up so that we clear the water inlet. If you wish, you can raise the lid and grasp the inside edge of the tab opening, lift it off the front of the washer and set it aside. Now, there’s still water in that hose, we’ll need a container here.

I’m just going to loosen this clamp, by compressing it and slide it back onto the hose. I also need to remove that clamp to use it on the replacement drain hose. Well next, we’ll need to release little arrowhead fasteners on that retainer.

We do the same at the back. Next, we’re going to depress these little arrowhead fasteners on that clamp and pull that through. Then at the top, we’ll do the same. Then, just pivot that away and pull it through.

Before we install the new hose, I’m just going to take the outlet into that, push that back through the mounting bracket. We’ll fit the inlet end of it in underneath this left front suspension leg. Slide the other end of the hose up to the rectangular opening in the back panel, then we’re going to engage these clips along that metal edge. Make sure it pulled up tight to that side, then snap in the retaining clips on the opposite side, until they engage. Line up the arrowheads on the new clamp on the bottom.

Fit that through the opening. Next, we’ll reinstall that clamp onto the new hose and we set it back far enough. We’ll reinstall that holder, inserting those little arrowhead fasteners into the opening on that leg. Position the clamp under the pump outlet, making sure that hose is fully inserted, till it meets the little stop. Then we can now put the cabinet back on.

Now, when reinstalling the cabinet, we want to make sure that the lip on the bottom front of that cabinet fits in underneath this cross rail on the frame. You will also note that there are a couple of raised tabs on the base, that will fit into rectangular openings on the bottom side lips of that cabinet as well. We need to make sure that we engage those and that will keep it aligned properly. It’s easier if you open the lid, then you can see down through the front, to make sure that we have it lined up side to side properly and the lip of the cabinet goes under the base frame and just make sure that that bottom lip goes right underneath the cross rail.

Just make sure that we push that cabinet all the way back, so that those tabs on the base frame engage the holes in the cabinet. Make sure the rear ones line up. We’ll take those clips, hook them into the openings on the back panel.

Line up the two openings in the main top. Take our flat-blade screwdriver and press those down into place. Remember to reconnect the lid switch and that the locking tab engages. We can then roll that console forward. We’re going to line up these hooks on the end caps, with the rectangular openings in the top.

Once they’re lined up, pull it straight back. We’ll take our Phillips screwdriver, then tighten up their retaining screws. We can now reconnect the drain hose to the outlets, or fill hoses if we had to remove those.

Reconnect the power. Our repair is complete.

Hello! Are you interested in getting a portable washer? This is a short video on the basics of the Magic Chef portable washe, Model number MCSTCW16W4. I ordered this portable washer from Walmart. It arrived in less than a week from the date ordered.

I used the site-to-store shipping because it would be easier to return it while already at the store if it arrived damaged. The washer arrived in very good condition, and the washer itself had no dents. I have included a picture of the wiring diagram for those who may be interested in it. I have also included the specifications of the 1.6 and 2.0 cubic feet washers that include the dimensions, weight, power supply, and input power. This washer has a nice selection of cycles including normal, heavy, delicate, quick, bulky, and spin only.

I use the normal program most of the time. Normal has one rinse and the longest final spin time. I also like that there is a spin only cycle too. The spin speed is about 800 revolutions per minute. I have included a close-up of the washer’s control panel.

Something that may not be obvious just by looking at it is the combination of options chosen for a wash cycle. Press the function button and you can set it to 1. soak, wash, rinse, and spin 2. wash, rinse, and spin 3. spin only 4. Wash only 5. wash and rinse 6. rinse and spin only. A convenient delay option is included, and there is also a time remaining countdown. This is a picture of the bottom of the washer. It looks like a miniature vertical modular washer design.

Surprisingly it seems well made given its inexpensive price. It looks easy to repair, and Magic Chef sells parts to repair this washer on its website. A plastic bottom cover is included. It helps prevent things from getting under and up in the washer.

This is a view of the back of the washer. The gray piece is a removable plastic panel that is held in place by a few screws. This is a view of the back of the washer with the grey plastic panel removed.

A close-up of the back of the washer shows that it would be easy to replace the drain pump if needed. This washer comes with everything needed. One fill hose and the quick connection adapter can be used to connect the washer to a kitchen or bathroom faucet. The temperature is controlled by the faucet. This washer can also be installed like a full-sized washer by connecting one fill hose to the hot and one fill hose to the cold faucet on a washer outlet box.

The temperature is then controlled by the selection on the washer’s control panel. This laundry detergent dispenser is nice. The owner’s manual states to use an HE powdered detergent. It looks like one could use liquid detergent too.

However, I recommend powdered. Liquid detergent is more likely to build up in hidden places. This is the same reason I do not use fabric softener. The inner tub is stainless steel.

This washer does not have an agitator. Instead it uses a pulsator that generates strong and weak water flows for an even wash. It works well especially for smaller items. I have another video that shows the wash action.

Unfortunately, you will need a two-gallon bucket. The government is using the “new math” and thinks limiting the water level for small, medium, and large loads saves water. Wrong.

Unless you add a bucket of water, it will take more loads to clean the same amount of clothes. When selecting small load, the water barely covers the bottom of the washer. When selecting medium loads, the water only comes up to about the second set of holes.

You can see the lint filter in this picture. It contains the loose lint, which is helpful especially if you line dry your clothes. Selecting large load only fills this tub half-full. This is the size I almost always select. I can always add more water to any load and it will not drain out.

However, the large, normal cycle has the longest spin time – this means less time is needed for line or machine drying. Adding a two-gallon bucket of water fills the tub about 3/4 full. This washer holds almost half of what I would consider a full load for the Maytag mvwp575gw. Magic Chef makes a dolly that in my opinion is a must-have. It is inexpensive and really useful whether the washer is used as a portable or in a more permanent installation.

For more information, download the manual from Magic Chef’s website. Thanks for watching. I hope you found this video helpful. 🙂

repair clinic encourages you to perform this procedure safely In this article we will show one or more of these icons to alert you when to use caution as with any repair be sure you’ve unplugged the appliance before beginning your first step is to move the control panel out of the way to do this remove the screws found at either end on some models these screws may be located in the rear panel or they may be covered by plastic end caps pulled the end cap off from the top to access the screw remove both screws and rotate the panel up some models use clips instead of screws to secure the control panel insert a putty knife between the control panel and the cabinet to release the clips unplug the wire connector and snap out the spring clips using a flat head screw driver tilt the cabinet towards you slide forward and remove your next step is to remove the water inlet spout use pliers to release the clamp that secures the hose to the spout and pulled the hose off push the two tabs of the spout outwards and lift up to detach the spout from the rear panel now remove the agitator if the dispenser has a lock ring pulled the ring up with your fingers then twist the dispenser upwards to remove next remove the agitator cap depending on your model you may also need to remove a dust cap hold the agitator base and use a seven sixteenth inch socket to remove the bolt and washer lift the agitator off of the driveshaft use a spanner wrench ann hammer to remove the tub nut next remove the tub ring press down on the rim to help a release the eight tabs now remove the inner tub by lifting it straight up your next step is to detach the drive block gently tap the block with a hammer to loosen then pull it straight up off the drive tube use plyers to remove all three suspension springs from the mounting brackets along with the tub counterbalance spring next remove the three spring mounting brackets disconnect the water level pressure switch to release the clamp that secures the drain hose to the tub port and pull the hose off be prepared for water to spill out next remove the outer tub by lifting it straight up off the mounting stem assembly you may need to use some lubricant to successfully removed the top once the outer tub is removed set it on its side you are now ready to replace the tub seal it’s still intact remove the old seal to install the new tub seal turned the tub upside-down and push the seal in until it snaps into place slide the outer tub back onto the mounting stem assembly secure the drain hose to the tub port and connect the water level pressure switch tube reinstall the three spring mounting brackets reconnect the three suspension springs and the counterbalance spring replace the drive block by aligning the two slots in the block with the two tabs in the drive tube and pushing the block down into position carefully replace the inner tub onto the driveshaft aligned the tub ring with the outer tub and secure it with the eight tabs screw the tub nut onto the drive block and tighten it with the spanner wrench and hammer place the agitator back onto the driveshaft and reinstall the bolt and washer replace the dust cap if your model has one replace the agitator cap if your model has a rinse dispenser push it down until it’s snaps into place and press the lock ring down with your thumbs reinstall the water inlet spout by inserting the top portion of the tabs into the rear panel and push the bottom portion of the tabs outward and press down to lock the spout into place reattach the hose and secure it with the clamp now reinstall the cabinet the front edge of the cabinet slides underneath the base frame use your foot to push it into position aligned the two notches in each side of the cabinet with the tabs on each side of the base frame now ease the cabinet to match up with the rear panel reinstall the spring clips reattach the wire connector rotate the control panel down and lock the clips into place or reinstall the two screws if applicable to your model replace the end caps by aligning the tab with the slot at the bottom and snapping the cap into position you are now ready to plug the appliance back in to make sure it’s functioning properly