Hi i’m josh from AustinAppliancePros and In this article i’m going to be helping you to diagnose motor problems in your washing machine. Now in most cases motor problems in your washing machine are going to be caused by worn carbon brushes. These are designed to come into contact with the moving part of the motor which is called the armature and pass power through it but they do wear down over time so obviously they will need to be replaced.
How would you know if the brushes are worn.
If the machine is filling and emptying as normal but the drum isn’t turning or if it’s making some sort of spluttering noise or if you can see sparking coming from underneath the front of the machine these are all likely to be caused by worn brushes and you need to replace them and you can see how to replace carbon brushes in another espares video.
Now although that does cover most instances of motor faults in a washing machine. There are a few occasions where it may be due to the motor itself so for safety I’ve unplugged this machine first and I’m just going to take the motor out of this machine and we’ll have a more close look at it to see where problems might arise. Now I’ve got the motor out of the machine I’ve just popped it down on some cardboard to protect both the motor and the top of the machine as well I’m going to turn it on to its side and here we can see there’s a multi plug with wires going off to various parts of the motor and if we take a look at the first two wires these red ones these go to a sensor here at the end of the motor now this sensor takes a reading from the armature of how fast it’s spinning and that measurement is then sent to the control board and from that measurement the control board can determine how fast the drum is spinning now as the sensor is faulty it’s going to take the wrong reading send the wrong measurement to the control board and as a result the drum will spin very very fast and then stop and that’ll continue in a cycle if that’s happening on your machine you can test the sensor using a multimeter just by popping the probes of the meter into either of the red terminals like so and for a working sensor I’d want to see any reading that wasn’t a short-circuit or an infinite reading and here I’m getting a reading of about 70 to 71 ohms so if that would indicate that the sensor is okay moving on to the next two wires we have a blue and a purple and these go to the carbon brushes on either side of the armature here so if I just pop the probes into those two terminals for a working connection here I’d want a reading of somewhere between one and seven ohms depending on the type of motor that I was working on and here I’m getting about five ohms so that would indicate that it’s okay and then we have three more wires here at the end of the plug and these go to the field windings around the side of the motor and again for a working connection I’d want somewhere between one and seven ohms so if I pop it into these first two terminals I’m getting about three and a half ohms these two about three ohms and these two about one-and-a-half ohms so all of these connections are good and that would indicate that the motor is fully functional now if when you test your motor you get readings that are dramatically different to any of these readings that would indicate that your motors got a fault and you’re going to need to replace the entire thing while you’ve got the motor out of the machine it’s a good opportunity to have a look at the carbon brushes as well and see how worn down they are and you can just unscrew them either side here and just have a look at how much material is left on them to determine how worn they are.