Dryer Repair – Replacing the Blower Housing (Frigidaire Part # 131775600)

front bulkhead in

Hi, it’s Jack, today we’re going to show you how to change the blower wheel and the housing on your dryer and it’s a really easy job. All we’re going to need is a number two Phillips screwdriver, we may need a small flat blade screwdriver, a pair of locking pliers and a seven-eighths socket with an extension and a ratchet. Let me show you how we do it.

Before we begin this repair the first thing we’ll need to do is to disconnect power to the dryer, so if it has a cord on simply unplug it or if it’s a hardwired dryer, locate the fuse or breaker panel and turn the power off there. Next, you want to pull that dryer out far enough that we can access two screws that secure the top to the cabinet. We’ll remove those two screws, and just slide that top back about half an inch and then lift it off and set it aside.

Our next step will be to remove two screws at the very top that secure the brackets that hold the control panel in place.

We’ll lift the control panel up and tilt it back out of the way and then we’ll remove the two top ones. We’ll have to hold that panel up against the cabinet so that it doesn’t become dislodged. Our next step will be to open the door, we’re going to remove these two screws just below the lint filter, then we’ll also remove two screws at the very bottom that secure the bottom of the front panel.

Next, we’ll disconnect this two wire harness to the door switch and we’ll also remove a single black wire that is attached to the light bulb. Then we can remove the top two screws securing that front panel to the cabinet, we’ll want to support that whole assembly as we do that. With all the screws removed, we’re next just going to lift up on the front panel to disengage four clips that hold it into the cabinet, then we’ll turn it around so that we can access the– Next, we’ll need to remove this front bulkhead and to do so we’ll want to either detach that zip tie that holds the wire harness to it or you cut it and replace it.

Looks like there’s lots of room to remove this one so we’re just going to take a thin flat blade screwdriver, we’re going to release that catch and we’ll pull it up.

We’ll next remove that single white wire from the light bulb and then disconnect the two harness– Well next remove that single white wire from the light bulb and then disconnect the– Next, we’ll remove two screws that secure this support bracket from the back to the front, and then just lift the little metal tabs out of the slots. Then we’ll remove two Phillips screws on the bottom, and then we’ll just lift that front bulkhead away from the drum, you may need to just lift up on the drum enough to release it and then we’ll set that aside. Now our next step will be to release the belt tension on the drum so we’re just kind of reach in on the right-hand side here and then in through the center, we feel both sides of that belt and you’ll feel that from the left side it goes over across the top of an idler pulley and then down onto the pulley on the drive motor.

Grasp that idler pulley, pull it to the left, release the tension, slide the belt off the motor pulley. Now at this point, we can use that belt to support the weight of the drum, we’re just going to lift up on it, clears the rear drum rollers, and then pull the whole drum right out of the dryer. Now, that we have the drum out of the way, our next step will be to remove the thermistor from the front of the blower housing, simply take the two screws out, then just set that out of the way.

We’ll next, take this little rubber gasket, pull that back onto the metal outlet duct.

Next, we’ll take two screws over the front, secure it to the base, next, we’ll remove the idler pulley assembly, it that just lifts off of a little pivot point to the left side of the motor and there’s a spring attached to the right side. Just carefully lift it up, make sure that the spring is still attached to the bottom, just lay that down at the back. What we’ll do next is we’ll take our locking pliers, we’re just going to carefully grasp motor pulley just tight enough that we don’t damage the pulley and we actually get a good grip on.

In the center of the lower wheel hub has a 7/8 X shape on it, so we use our socket and extension and as a left-hand thread which means that we’re going to turn it clockwise to loosen it.

With that socket firmly on the blower wheel, just turn it clockwise, until it breaks free and we can just spin that blower wheel right off the motor shaft. There’s also a locking device at the back of that blower housing that fits down on to the front of the motor, take a flat blade screwdriver and just pry that tab over enough that we can lift that up and remove it. Then, lift up on the front of the motor.

Once you lift up on that enough, that will free the bottom half of that front portion of the motor and blower housing, then we’re going to lift it away.

That motor sets right in this area here, we just need to lift that up out of that little channel. We can now discard the old blower housing and blower. When installing the new housing we’re also going to line up these two little tabs with these slotted openings in the base of the dryer.

We’ll also need to make sure that the front bushing on that motor sets firmly down into this little U-shaped channel on the back of the housing. As we slide that housing and blower into position, we’ll want to center up the hub of that blower wheel on the motor shaft to allow us to push it straight back. We’ll start by doing that, just tuck the end of the housing into the outlet duct and lift the motor up enough that we can line up that blower wheel.

Once we’ve got it started into that hub of that blower wheel, we can then lift up on the motor and then slide the whole housing back into place, lining up those two tabs on the bottom.

Make sure they go firmly back into position. At this point, we can rotate that blower wheel counterclockwise, just tighten it onto that motor shaft. We just snug that up for now, again we want to make sure that we have the housing back into position with the tabs at the rear are fully engaged.

We will reinstall the locking device on the front hub, press that down till it locks into place. We’ll install the two screws down through the housing into the base.

Next, we’ll install the screws down through the front of the blower housing into the base and if you have the housing in its the correct position, those should thread in straight and tighten both of those securely. We can then take our ratchet and socket and we’ll tighten that blower wheel and make sure it’s firmly onto the hub of that wheel and just give it a bit of torque to tighten it. Remove the locking Pyrus from the rear. Make sure it turns freely.

We’ll then reposition the idler, make sure the spring is attached on, hooked in and set forth over that pivot and it should stay in position.

We’ll Pull the thermistor around and attach it to the front of the blower housing. Tighten those bolts securely and now we can put the drum and belt back on. When installing the drum, first thing we’ll do is we’ll loop the belt around it, keeping the grooved side of the belt against the face of the drum.

Then we’re just going to lift it into position. Once we get it to the back, we’ll make sure that we have it sitting up on top of the drum rollers. Make sure that they sit flush and rotate.

At this point, we can go in and reconnect that belt to the idler and motor pull– When installing the belt we will have it draped around the drum. It’s actually going to come down and loop around that motor pulley.

We’ll go across the top of the idler and up either side of the drum. Reaching on the right-hand side, grab the belt make sure it’s still flat against the drum. Reaching on the right-hand side, grab the belt, make sure it’s still flat against the drum, same thing through the center.

We’re going to pull that belt from the center over across the top of the idler pulley.

We’ll grasp that idler pulley, put some tension on the spring. Then we should be able to take that and rotate it and you’ll see the blower wheel turn. We’ll go ahead and put the front bulkhead in place.

When installing the front bulkhead, we’ll want to make sure that we tuck those two front rowers in underneath the drum so we have to lift up on the drum as we’re installing that, and also you’ll note that there are couple of tabs at the bottom of these top flanges. They will fit into these uppermost rectangular holes and that will hold that in place until we can get some screws on it. Drop the bottom right-hand side in first so that it’s up against the blower housing.

Lift up on the drum just enough that the wheels will clear, then lift the whole assembly up hook there was tabs in.

Feel around to make sure that felt stayed in place. You should be able to rotate the drum while holding in on the bottom of that. Next, we’ll reposition this support line it up with those openings.

Make sure the two tabs fit down into the slots and then install the two retaining screws.

Next, we’ll put the control panel back in position. We’ll just lay that across the top of the drum first. We’ll reconnect the wire harnesses, making sure that the locking tabs engage on those and we’ll also reinstall that zip tie to hold those harnesses in place.

Now if you’ve cut the original one, you’ll need to install a new one there. We can reattach the white wire to the rear terminal on that light bulb.

Make sure it fits nice and tight and then we’re ready to put the front panel on. When reinstalling the front panel, want to make sure that we line up these four fasteners, two in the bottom, two on the top, put these rectangular holes in the edge of the side panels. They have a little hook on them so that will hold them in place until we put the retaining screws in.

At the same time, we’re going to hold up on that harness so that it doesn’t get jammed in the door opening. Next, reconnect that black wire. We’ll drop the control panel down into position and you’ll note that there are– Next we’ll install the two screws on the bottom of the front panel.

Now we’ll put the main top back on. When installing the top, we want to make sure that we line up these slotted openings with tabs across the top of the console. Sit it down about a half an inch back from the console, and carefully slide it forward, making sure that those tabs engage, and then install the two retaining screws at the back.

We’re now ready to reconnect the power and our repair’s complete.