Hi, it’s Jack from AustinAppliancePros. Today, we’re going to show you how to install a dryer repair kit on your dryer. It’s a really easy job.
All we’re going to need is a quarter-inch know driver, a long flat-blade screwdriver, a short flat-blade screwdriver, and a Phillips screwdriver. Let me show you how we do it.To do this repair, since we will be working near some electrical circuits, we’ll have to disconnect the power to the dryer. Simply pull it forward and unplug the dryer.
If it’s a hardwired dryer, you’ll need to locate the fuse panel or breaker panel and turn the power off at that point. We’ll next want to pull the dryer far enough forward that we can gain access to the back of it, so you’ll need to disconnected from the vent.On conventional dryers that have a console on the back, you will need to remove the end caps and the screws that secure the console to the top and tilt it back to remove the top.
On this style of dryer, we simply will need to remove two screws at the back of the main top and pull it back to gain access. There are two quarter-inch hex head screws that secure the top on this model. Just remove those, slide the top panel back, and then lift it free.On this model, we’ll need to remove the control panel from the front.
It has a couple of plastic clips inside that you’ll be able to see that will need to be disengaged.
Simply push them sideways to disengage them and tilt the console forward. You may need long-blade screwdriver to access those tabs. Then, there’ll be three tabs across the top that we’ll need to lift up on the console to disengage those.
Then, we can tilt it forward, lift it up and out of the way.That will give us access to two quarter-inch hex head screws that secure the front panel in place. We’ll also need to remove two screws in each bottom corner that secure the lower access panel. We’ll remove those first.
Just pull away on the bottom edge of that access panel, tilt it forward and let it drop down to unhook it from the bottom of the front panel. We can set that aside.Next, there are two quarter-inch hex head screws on the bottom of that front panel. We can remove those.
Before remove the front panel, we’ll want to disconnect the harness that goes to the door switch. Locate that below the front panel and just slide a flat-blade screwdriver in under that locking tab to separate that. There are tabs on both sides of that connector.
Unplug the harness.On these round-door models, there are also two Phillip screws on either side of the lint screen opening that will need to be removed. Then the last step is to remove the two quarter-inch hex head screws at the top of that front panel. Just keep some weight against that panel to hold it against the cabinet as you remove those screws.
Then, lift up on the whole assembly, tilt it forward, and remove it.Our next step will be to remove the front bulkhead. In models that have an electronic sensor dry, you’ll need to disconnect the wire harness to that.
Again, with a flat-blade screwdriver, just go in under those locking tabs on the connector. Just spread them enough that will allow to disconnect. Then we’ll remove the two quarter-inch hex head screws on the bottom.
We’re also going to remove two screws on that blower housing, here and here.These screws are typically a gold color screw that indicate which ones that need to be removed. Then lastly, we’re going to just loosen these two top screws.
You’ll note that there is a keyhole slot that fits down over those screws. We don’t need to completely remove them. That will support that front bulkhead and totally remove it.
Just carefully pull out on the bottom of that blower housing, lift up gently. Clear the bottom of the cabinet. Once we’ve cleared that, we can lift up on the bulkhead, disengage it from those keyhole slots, and then tuck it down from behind the top panel.
You can now set that aside.Next, we’ll want to remove the control panel completely from the dryer. You’ll note that there’s a harness on this model. It comes from the control panel, back to the control board on the side here.
We’ll just take our flat-blade screwdriver and just release that locking tab with just enough pressure to clear the harness connector. Pull that through and then set this aside.We will need to remove the drum as well. We’re going to remove this bracket on the front to allow us enough room to lift that up and pull the drum forward.
We’ll also need to disconnect the belt from the drum. Reaching in over the top of the blower outlet, we’ll reach back until we find that belt.
You’ll feel where it goes around an idler pulley. We’ll need to pull that idler pulley enough to release the tension. Pull it towards the left, roll the belt off of the idler.
That will give enough slack in that belt to be able to lift the drum up and away.Remove the screws that secure that support from the cabinet. In this model, it’ll be on the top and the side. You may have enough flexibility by just removing one side.
I find that you need to at least loosen the one on the front on the opposite side. That should give you enough flexibility to pull that drum out from underneath of it. Slide the belt back off of the drum as you pull it forward.
Then, set that aside.With the drum out, we can replace the screws on that top support to hold the cabinet rigid. With the drum removed, we can next pull the old belt out of the cabinet and discard it. The four drum rollers all are mounted in the same manner.
There’s a triangular plastic clip that will hold the roller from coming too far forward or too far backward. With a small flat-blade screwdriver, we’ll just go in under the edge of that clip, spread it just enough that we can pop it off of there. Just discard the old triangular clips as we do have new ones with the kit.
Slide the old roller off, remove the rear clip as well, and then just slide it completely off the shaft and discard them.When installing the new clip, we’re simply going to push it past the front groove where the front clip will sit into. You may need to use the flat-blade again to lift it up out of that groove and push it completely to the rear and make sure it sets into the groove at the rear of that shaft. Just apply enough pressure on that clip so that it will lift out of that groove, not enough to stretch it too much.[music]Try to hold one edge of that up onto the flat of the shaft as you pry the rest of it out.
Rotate it around until you can get last end of that triangle clip.
Then, slide it completely off and discard it. Slide the new one up past the first groove. If need be, just gently spread it enough to pop it up out of there.[music]Then, make sure it snaps into the groove at the back of the shaft.
Apply a little bit of oil to that shaft if it’s dry. Slide the new roller.
Then, snap on the front triangle. Once we have all four drum rollers installed, we can next change the idler pulley. Again, it is held on with the same type of triangular clip.
With our flat-blade, we’re just going to reach in, pry it off and discard it. Slide the old idler wheel off.There will also be a thrust washer on that shaft that will need to be removed.
We’ll install the new washer, new idler pulley. Make sure it turns freely on that shaft. If need be, just apply two drops of oil for lubrication. Then, secure with a triangular ring.
There will also be a thrust washer on that shaft that will need to be removed.
We’ll install the new washer, new idler pulley, make it turns freely on that shaft. If need be, just apply two drops oil for lubrication. Then, secure it with a triangular ring.We’re now ready to reinstall the drum into the dryer.
If the belt was broken on your old dryer, you may not know how the new belt will install.
When reinstalling the belt, we’ll need to know how it will fit around the idler and the motor pulley.
It will basically look like this. That will allow the groove side of that belt to lay up against the drum and provide spring tension to keep it tight.When installing it, we’re just going to drape it over the drum, lift the drum in the position, and then we’ll install the belt onto the idler and motor pulley once we have it in place. Now, we can reassemble the dryer.
In reassembling, I’ll first of all, take the screw out that holds that cross member in place.
That will allow us to lift that up enough to fit the drum in place. Just leave it a little forward so that we can drape the belt around the drum, leading it through from the backside. Now, we can push it back the rest the way.
We want to make sure that those rollers fit up into the groove inside the drum.
Make sure that the felt fits nicely around that back bulkhead.At this point, we’re going to reinstall the belt around the motor and idler pulleys. To install that belt, I’ll reach one hand in from the right-hand side over the top of the outlet duct assembly. Then the other hand, we can reach in from the left side of the cabinet.
We’re going to take that belt, lay it across the top of the idler pulley with the groove side up.
Then, from the right side, we’re going to push it in underneath that idler pulley, forming a loop. As we push the idler pulley to the left, we can take that loop and wrap it around the motor pulley.Just feel that belt to make sure it’s right side against the drum. Then, carefully rotate the drum clockwise for a few turns.
You should see the blower wheel turning like that. You should see the groove side of the belt against the drum.
You should set her up just about an inch forward into that hollow spot on the drum. Now, we can reinstall the screw that holds that cross member in place, as well as the screw on the top that we removed.Next, we’ll put the front bulkhead in place. When installing the front bulkhead on the round-door style of dryer, we need to make sure that we get the bottom portion of that lower housing cover in over the lip of that cabinet.
There’s a bit of cut right there. We’re going to tuck the top of it in first behind that cross member. We’re going to lift it up high enough that we can clear that opening.
Then, lift up on the drum to make sure it sits down on top of the rollers.
Then, you can rotate it into position, make sure the keyhole slots line up with those screws.
Then, we can go ahead and install the two bottom screws and tighten the two top ones, and replace the two screws and secure that cover to the lower housing.If your model has sensors in the drum, we’ll need to reconnect that wire harness. Make sure it’s inserted enough that the locking tabs on both sides engage. If you removed the screw on the left side of that cross member, then we’re going to install that.
When reinstalling the front panel, we’ll make sure that we have a couple of screws handy here.
We’re just going to lay it in position.
We’ll line up the screw holes at the top, hold it in position. Once we have the two top screws there to support it, we can make sure it’s lined up, if it’s flushed with the cabinet, and then install the two bottom screws.We need to tighten all four of those securely. Remember to reconnect the door switch harness and insert the plug in falling off.
Let the locking tabs engage. We can next reinstall the control panel.
Begin by inserting the harness through that opening. Then, we’re going to engage this large tab in the center with the rectangular opening on that cross member. Then, also engage the two tabs on either side and the tree across the top.Make sure those tabs spring back towards the center of the console so that they’re locked in position.
Also, reconnect the cable connector to the control board on the left side at the top here. Insert fully so that the little locking tab hooks on the bottom and holds it in place. Then, open the door and replace those two Phillip screws and secure the front panel to the bulkhead.We’ll reinstall the bottom panel.
I’ll make sure that this top lip on the panel tucks up in underneath front panel.
Hold that in position while you install the quarter-inch screws.
If need be, you may have to tilt that dryer back enough to get good access to those two screws in the bottom of the front panel. Tighten them securely. Then now, we can put the main top back on.When reinstalling the main top on these round-door models, there are a couple of tabs.
They will fit into that slot just where the cabinet is recessed back a little bit behind the cross member.
Lay it into position, make sure it’s down nice and flush, push it forward, and ensure that it engages those tabs. Then, install the two quarter-inch screws that hold it in position. We’re now ready to reconnect the vent and our repairs is complete.
I told you it was an easy job.
Thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.